Forum Post: MidniteLighting.com

Plenty of Warehouse lighting in Orlando and Texas. Call me

Forum Post: RE: Source of quality LED's

Good day Glenn, You are most welcome and it would be great to go fishing, as I have never had the pleasure to visit your wonderful area! As for your project... The on-board 120V Drivers are certainly the direction that a number of manufacturers are going. I have not fully analyzed these high voltage (HV) designs and so I cannot comment on how well or bad they are or could be. That being said I would be concerned about the actual electrical approvals on these designs. Sadly, there are a number of manufacturers that fraudulently affix or market that their designs/products are UL, CUL, etc approved. Many are not. I was reviewing one design and clearly there was no way it could pass, as the isolation distance between the HV circuits was significantly less than it should be ... about 0.030" when it should have been 0.250" or so. The device failed (surprise) and the "Hot" was shorted against the case. When the building operator touched the light he would get a nasty shock... surprise again. So I would ensure you check with the supplier and obtain their UL registration number to confirm their product/driver has been approved. Remember this is for HV approval and does not necessarily guarantee survival through nasty electrical storms, etc. Here the HV design will need specific and costly circuitry to absorb the energy associated with these transient events. Low voltage (LV) designs tend to be easier and in a number of cases provide electrical isolation from the HV input. In virtually all cases they use an isolation transformer between the HV and LV circuits. Transformers may be an old technology, but they work very well and have a very high reliability (MTBF of about 50 years). They are bulky and add to cost, but one cannot argue about their robustness and reliability. In the last 30 years I think I had only 1 transformer that has failed. Even so this design approach also needs transient voltage protection that most manufacturers ignore and provide little design. The reason is cost... and since we live in a time where the desire is to have least cost product, something has to give... and so electrical transient protection is the first to go. Thankfully I have customers that are willing to pay for better quality and so the extra $$ are worth it to them, as my devices just work... and usually for very long periods of time (over 15+ years with 24/7 operation). Getting back to your project.. Check the HV approvals and ensure that they are there. Electrical transient protection is up to you. If your project is not mission critical and/or if it is not a big deal to replace a dead device, then you can forgo the enhanced transient protection. Lastly, heat dissipation. The larger the heat sink the better, as this will really extend the life of the LED. Also use the best thermal compound you can between the LED and the heatsink. One of the best compounds is used primarily in the computer industry and is called Artic Silver 5. It is pricey, but has a high thermal conductance which will help a lot. It is conductive and so use it appropriately. Anyway, good luck with your project! Cheers, Sam

Forum Post: RE: What's the best Bluetooth Wireless Speaker?

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